If you’ve placed an order for our suspension arms, thank you! We are sure you’ll love the thought and design we’ve put into these arms to make them precise to adjust and easy to install.
Installation instructions are attached below. You can show these instructions to your local shop, or you can use them as a guide if you’re installing the suspension yourself. We are making the assumption that whoever is performing the installation has adequate mechanical competency and experience. Do not attempt installation if you are not qualified.

Note that the setup instructions for our arms are SPECIFIC to our arms, and even if you or your shop has installed suspension arms with sphericals before, you still need to read these instructions as the toe arms use a different type of adjuster.

The arms come at a preset length DO NOT ADJUST them until they are on the alignment rack, unless you know what you are doing!

Tools & Equipment Required:

  • Metric Socket Set
  • Metric Wrench Set
  • Two Jacks or One Jack and A Hoist
  • Jack Stands
  • 1/2″ Torque Wrench
  • 1/4″ Torque Wrench

Theory & Setup:

Factory arm lengths (eye to eye):

Camber arm: 255 mm
Toe Arm: 221.3 mm

Our toe arms and V1 camber arms use an offset thread adjuster, which means that while both sides of the adjuster are normal right hand threads, they use different thread pitches. This results in very fine adjustment – full revolution of the adjuster changes the length of the arm only 0.5mm. Common adjusters using left hand and right hand threads would make the same adjustment in less than 1/6th of a turn, making precise adjustments on the alignment rack difficult.

Our V2 camber arms use a RH/LH arrangement, and although they are more sensitive, they are simpler to adjust. We made this change to accommodate those that want to make very large changes in camber without having to un-bolt the arm to reset the adjuster. Unless you got the first 10 sets of camber arms, you have V2 arms. 

Unless the car is significantly lowered or a significantly different alignment is desired (i.e. a lot of negative camber to fit large wheels), no changes need to be made to the arms. Just install them, and adjust them on the alignment rack. They will come preset at the right starting point in anticipation of needing to be extended on the alignment rack for the lowered ride height. Either way, have a read through the following paragraphs to understand:

Most importantly – NEVER have more than 20mm from the edge of the adjuster to the arm exposed. Any more than this is NOT ENOUGH ENGAGEMENT. 

The use of an offset thread adjuster requires a different setup procedure than a LH/RH threaded assembly. Once the arm is installed in the car, only so many turns can be made before the adjuster will bottom out on one end, or be too far extended on the other.

For this reason you must set the length of the arm off of the car with the foresight for how you anticipate making changes. For the Model 3 this is very easy, as all of the other suspension arms are all fixed lengths. From this you’ll know that when you lower the car you’re going to want to extend the camber arm, and extend the toe arm (the rear toe will move in as the vehicle is lowered). So in both cases, the arms will end up being longer than stock.

The idea is to have the adjuster centered when the alignment is complete, we ship the arms with the adjuster installed so that more fine threads are exposed. When the arm is installed and the alignment is performed, every turn on the adjuster to lengthen the arm will bring it closer to the center, with an even distance on either side. This is ideal.

Obviously this isn’t always practical, but the aim should be to have the adjuster close to center. As long as there is enough adjustment so the adjuster does not bottom out, or have more than 20mm of thread exposed, you are in an acceptable adjustment range. Clearly you want to leave a lot of possible adjustment range prior to going for an alignment. Setting the arms up in such a way that you have no adjustment range will result in wasted time on the alignment rack as you’ll have to disconnect the clevis on the knuckle to adjust how much the adjuster is threaded into each arm.

This is the maximum allowable extension of the arm. No more than 20mm is allowable between the edge of the adjuster and the edge of either arm.

This is the ideal setting, and approximately how we ship the arms out. These are set to the factory length, but the adjuster is biased with more of the finer thread showing – as it is known that the arm will need to be lengthened during the alignment for a lowered car. Once the arm is extended a couple of turns, the adjuster will find itself centered.

In this example the adjuster is centered. This is the ideal result after an alignment is complete.

Installation Instructions:

Installation for a pair of arms should take less than 30 minutes. It is likely that jacking the car up and removing the wheels will take longer than swapping the arms. There is really nothing in the way to make the job difficult.

  1. Jack the car up and remove both rear wheels. Lower the car onto jack stands in the rear.
  2. Locate the eccentric adjuster for the toe arm. This is where the factory toe adjustment is done. Mark the location of the eccentric cam with a paint marker so that you can re-install the arm in the same position (this is to get to the alignment shop without significantly affecting the alignment).
  3. Remove the toe arm and camber arm using normal hand tools.
  4. Install the MPP arms the same way you removed the OEM arms. Torque the inner camber bolt to 95ft-lb, torque inner toe arm to 60ft-lb. Loosely tighten the out-board knuckle bolts, and then loosen the bolt 1/2 turn.
  5. Jack the suspension until the car starts to lift off of the jack or jack stand slightly. Now torque the out-board camber arm to 95ft-lb and the toe arm to 60ft-lb.
  6. Check that the MPP adjuster lock nuts are torqued to 66in-lb using a 1/4″ torque wrench
  7. Re-install wheels, remove jack-stands and lower car.
  8. Torque wheels to 129lb-ft
  9. Go get an alignment!


Alignment shop instructions:

  1. Loosen M6 jam nuts from suspension arms
  2. Turn adjuster as required for desired alignment settings. Note that threading the adjuster towards the fine threads will make the arm longer as one full rotation that exposes the coarse thread will extend the arm by 0.5mm.
  3. Set the camber to approximately the desired amount.
  4. Use the OEM toe adjuster to get the toe in the ballpark.
  5. Set the camber precisely and lock down the M6 bolts, torquing them to 66in-lb.
  6. Set the toe precisely using the adjuster and lock down the M6 bolts, torquing them to 66in-lb. Note that locking down the adjuster may cause the arm to toe in by an additional 0.01 degree.
  7. One full turn of the Toe Arm is approximately 1mm of toe change.


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