If you’ve placed an order for our suspension arms, thank you! These will help your Model 3 alignment go smoothly and without issue. We are sure you’ll love the thought and design we’ve put into these arms to make them precise to adjust and easy to install. Installation instructions are attached below. You can show these instructions to your local shop, or you can use them as a guide if you’re installing the suspension yourself. We are making the assumption that whoever is performing the installation has adequate mechanical competency and experience. Do not attempt installation if you are not qualified.
The arms come at a preset length DO NOT ADJUST them until they are on the alignment rack unless you know what you are doing! If your shop hasn’t done a Model 3 alignment before, please have them review this page in detail. SAVE YOURSELF money by making sure whoever is working on your car has all of the information on hand to do the job properly and efficiently!
Tools & Equipment Required:
- Metric Socket Set
- Metric Wrench Set
- Two Jacks or One Jack and A Hoist
- Jack Stands
- 1/2″ Torque Wrench
- 1/4″ Torque Wrench
Theory & Setup:
Factory arm lengths (eye to eye):
Camber arm: 255 mm
Toe Arm: 221.3 mm
Unless the car is significantly lowered or a significantly different alignment is desired (i.e. a lot of negative camber to fit large wheels), no changes need to be made to the arms. Just install them, and adjust them on the alignment rack. They will come preset at the right starting point in anticipation of needing to be extended on the alignment rack for the lowered ride height.
Most importantly – NEVER have more than 20mm from the edge of the adjuster to the arm exposed. Any more than this is NOT ENOUGH ENGAGEMENT.
This is the maximum allowable extension of the arm. No more than 20mm is allowable between the edge of the adjuster and the edge of either arm.
Camber + Toe Installation Instructions:
Installation for a pair of arms should take less than 30 minutes. It is likely that jacking the car up and removing the wheels will take longer than swapping the arms. There is really nothing in the way to make the job difficult.
- Jack the car up and remove both rear wheels. Lower the car onto jack stands in the rear.
- Locate the eccentric adjuster for the toe arm. This is where the factory toe adjustment is done. Mark the location of the eccentric cam with a paint marker so that you can re-install the arm in the same position (this is to get to the alignment shop without significantly affecting the alignment).
- Remove the toe arm and camber arm using normal hand tools.
- Install the MPP arms the same way you removed the OEM arms. Torque the inner camber bolt to 95lb-ft, torque inner toe arm to 60lb-ft. Loosely tighten the out-board knuckle bolts, and then loosen the bolt 1/2 turn.
- Jack the suspension until the car starts to lift off of the jack or jack stand slightly. Now torque the out-board camber arm to 95lb-ft and the toe arm to 60lb-ft.
- Check that the MPP adjuster lock nuts are torqued to 105lb-in using a 1/4″ torque wrench
- Re-install wheels, remove jack-stands and lower car.
- Torque wheels to 129lb-ft
- Your Model 3 alignment should go smoothly now! The same applies for a Model Y!
Cyber Arm Installation Instructions:
The cyber rear traction and trailing arms are straight forward to install, however there are a few small items that will try to put up a fight, so here are some tips.
- Install both arms on each side before doing the other side (one side at a time)
- With the car jacked up and the wheels off, remove the front subframe bracket (3 bolts including the main subframe bolt), to gain access to the trailing arm bolt.
- Remove the trailing arm and install the new Cyber rear trailing arm – but leave the subframe bracket and subframe bolt out. Torque the trailing arm to 60lb-ft.
- Remove the traction arm. You will fight to get the OEM bolt out, but having the subframe slightly lowered will help.
- Install the cyber traction arm with the supplied 65mm long bolt. This will make installation easier. Torque to 60lb-ft.
- The cyber traction arm must be installed to provide maximum subframe clearance, with the center of the curve facing downwards.
- Jack the knuckle up and torque the outboard bolts at ride height to 60lb-ft.
Alignment shop instructions:
- Loosen M6 jam nuts from suspension arms
- Turn adjuster as required for desired alignment settings.
- Set the camber to approximately the desired amount.
- Use the OEM toe adjuster to get the toe in the ballpark.
- Set the camber precisely and lock down the M6 bolts, torquing them to 105in-lb.
- Set the toe precisely using the adjuster and lock down the M6 bolts, torquing them to 105in-lb. Note that locking down the adjuster may cause the arm to toe in by an additional 0.01 degree.
- One hex (1/6th of a turn) of the Toe Arm is approximately 1mm of toe change.
After a few years of use, you may want to re-anti-seize the threads of your camber or toe arms. This is especially important if you live in an area with salted roads in the winter. You can re-apply anti-seize without losing your alignment as follows:
- With the wheel off, disconnect the bolt connecting the arm to the suspension knuckle.
- Measure and record the gap between the inner and outer arm precisely, ideally using a digital vernier caliper.
- Loosen the outer clevis clamp bolt and fully unthread the outer clevis. Apply anti-seize to the bore and to the threads of the adjuster, and re-install the clevis back to the original gap. Tighten the pinch bolt.
- Loosen the inner arm clamp bolt, and unthread the adjuster and outer clevis as an assembly. Apply anti-seize to the bore and the threads of the adjuster, and re-install the arm back to the original gap. Tighten the pinch bolt.
- Re-install the bolt and torque it at ride height (use a jack to raise the suspension) to 60lb-ft (toe), 95lb-ft (camber).