Hello again everyone!

The other day we needed to swap out our MPP Page Mill Track Pads Track Pads for our MPP Page Mill Street Pads on The Future, so we took a few pictures to show everyone how simple it is – welcome to our Tesla Model 3 Front Brake Pad Replacement DIY! Hopefully it helps if you need to swap pads in the near future.

Please keep in mind that brakes are a safety item – so be sure to get qualified help if needed. 

Time required: 30-45 minutes

Difficulty: 2/5

Tools Required:

  • Floor Jack
  • Jack Stands
  • Torque Wrench
  • 21mm 1/2″ Drive Socket
  • Hammer (preferably not claw type)
  • Thin Pin Punch
  • Flathead Screwdrivers or Small Pry Bars x2

Installation Steps:

First, get your tools and brake pads ready for installation.

That’s it, really.

Jack up the car and remove the front wheel:

MPP Page Mill 365mm Big Brake Kit

Using the hammer and punch, carefully tap the pins out of the caliper. Be sure not to nick the caliper!

Make sure your pin punch will fit through the hole, don’t get it stuck!

Tap both pins halfway out, allowing them to still be retained by the spring clip. 

You may need to press the spring down a little to remove the punch after you hit the pin partway out
Top pin partially removed

Fully remove the top pin. You may need to twist and wiggle it slightly as the anti-rattle clip is holding pressure on it. It helps to use a finger and push in the anti-rattle clip. The clip will swing down, then removing the bottom pin will be easy at that point.

Swinging the anti-rattle clip down once the top pin is removed

You did it! Now keep your parts organized so you don’t lose those pins! Next, remove the pads. They should slide out easily, or a little wiggling may be required.

4 pistons are visible with the brake pads removed
In a few years, we may find ourselves wire brushing rust off of these pins, but for now, they are in very good condition.

Your new pads are likely thicker than your old pads, if they are, you will need to push back the caliper pistons. Leave one pad inserted, and on the opposing side use your two flathead screwdrivers or small pry bars to carefully pry the pistons back into the caliper. Be careful not to damage the dust boots. The pistons will compress slowly.

Pushing the pistons back evenly, if you try to do one at a time, the other will pop out.

Install one pad, then move on to the other half of the caliper.

You may want to use brake lubricant on the top and bottom of the pads. We change them frequently so we don’t bother. The lubricant will also attract dirt/grime.

Install the pins and anti-rattle clip in reverse order of removal. Gently tap the pins until they are seated – they should protrude out of the other side just like when you started. Make sure the pins go through the holes in the pads.

Install and torque your wheel to 130ft-lb. Repeat the process for the other side of the car.

Important – Press the brake pedal 5 times before you drive the car. This pushes the pistons out into the pads/rotors. If you forget this you won’t have a brake pedal the first time you try to stop!

You’re done!

We should also note – there is no complicated bedding-in process for our street pads, just drive normally and try to avoid hard stops using the brakes for the first 100 miles. If you are installing track-oriented pads, please check the manufacturer’s recommendations for bedding them, and don’t do anything dangerous on the street!